Pitufa.at

This morning we awoke to a perfectly calm lagoon, Pitufa was floating in a sea of turquoise surrounded by coralheads, so Christian took the dinghy out to take some pics of our pretty, little Sparkman & Stephens. Of course there’s laundry on the line–you’ll hardly ever see Pitufa without this kind of decoration

When we set out we used to collect used clothes, towels, etc. in a bag that got smellier and grubbier every day until we finally found a washing machine somewhere to do a big load. In Isabela (Galapagos) we couldn’t load the machine ourselves, but the guy from the launderette took the bag from me to do it himself. He (literally) turned up his nose, gave me an accusing look and said “Es muy sucio” (it’s very dirty). Doing laundry clearly wasn’t his vocation, but I had to admit that he was right.
From then on we stopped accumulating laundry, but simply started washing a few pieces every day. Theoretically we’d have enough energy and water from the solar panels and watermaker to run a washing machine, but we don’t have the space to fit one, so we use a bucket and it’s really not a big deal to wash 4 T-Shirts one day, some knickers the next and from time to time a towel, bedsheet or duvet cover (when the weather looks stable).

Unfortunately this March was really rainy, so we accumulated more things than we usually do and then I found a whole locker containing our spare towels and bed sheets had gone moldy/smelly. Washing those big things in unstable weather conditions was a bit of a challenge, but today we finished the last ones!

Check out this April’s AllAtSea magazine for an article about the pros and cons of seasonal sailing versus all-year-round cruising!

After some sunny summer months we’re having rainy weather (it’s the rainy season after all) and Kadavu’s lagoon gleams in 2 shades of grey instead of the usual 50 shades of blue and green. We are accumulating more and more damp things on the boat without being able to dry them out, below deck it’s steaming with all hatches closed and mould is growing faster than we can wipe it off. Unfortunately the weather forecasts show that the convergence zone will keep lingering over Fiji, so more unsettled weather is coming. The western parts of Fiji are flooded and the risk of cyclones is also higher with an active MJO (Madden Julian Oscillation) crossing the Pacific.

Even though we only spent a brief time in the Caribbean, we’re still writing for the popular AllAtSea magazine there! January’s issue featured “Never bored aboard” about hobbies while cruising, there was a reminder to “Protect Parrotfish” in the February issue and now I’ve just downloaded the March issue and found our “Ode to the hydrovane” about our tireless helmsman Wayne Vaney
You can either pick up the AllAtSea magazine for free at most chandleries in the Caribbean or you can download the magazine for FREE!
I’ll keep writing as fast as I can to make sure there’ll be Pitufa articles in the following issues as well

Watching reefs bleach and die makes me ashamed to be human. All those fishies looking up at me, the little clown fish trying to seek shelter in his bleached and dying anemone, the chromis in the algae-overgrown skeleton of a staghorn coral–they don’t know why the reefs are dying. But I know.
Because of overfishing, erosion, pollution and of course global warming. All caused by one species: us (and don’t go and blame farting cows now, because they are bred by humans). Each fish or worm or whatever lowly creature plays their part in the eco-system, except for us humans. We think we are above those rules, so we have the right to destroy the oceans, the whole planet, just because we always want more. More comfort, more profit, more luxuries, more food for more people.
If only people could step back and reflect what they actually need and take less instead of more, more, more.

Sorry to be so negative, but despite the fact that we cherish each corner with healthy coral, try to console ourselves that a half-dead coral colony is actually half-alive, hold on to the hope that some species of coral seem to adapt and anxiously watch the weather for a cold-spell to give them a breather I’m afraid we are just bullshitting ourselves. The reefs are dying so fast, it’s heartbreaking. And yes, nature can adapt, but not when the changes come so fast and on such an extreme level.

If you’re visiting the Austrian boat show in Tulln this week, come to the Pitufino stand to see the demonstration of its many features! We won’t be there, but our colleague in Austria. We give a 20% boatshow discount, but we have extended the offer to the online shop www.currently-marine.com, so everyone who buys this weeks gets the discount

Exactly one year ago we had to swim for our lives in the ripping current of the southern pass of Matuku after our accident with a local boat. We somehow made it through the surf, somehow managed to hold on to the sunken boat for an hour while waiting for rescue. Poor Maikeli didn’t and today we think of him and his widow and daughter…
The last year was the toughest of my life and I’m still struggling with the injuries I suffered then, but we made it, we’re grateful to still be here. We’re still sailing towards the horizon.

A cruising boat wants constant love and attention–our Pitufa’s no exception. One of the zippers on the sprayhood ripped out yesterday, so we went through our spare material, couldn’t find a new zipper, but at least a sturdy one we had cut out of an old backpack and got out our sewing machine. The problem was as usually not doing the seam, but getting the rolled up material somehow to fit into the machine… Hardly a month goes by without Miss Pfaff helping us out with a major of minor problem–so glad we got our sturdy sewing machine with us!

We’re having a great time snorkeling the passes of Kadavu’s beautiful barrier reef in glorious, calm summer weather

The Great Astrolabe Reef is great indeed!!

The coral inside the lagoon of Kadavu and its northern islands is mediocre, so we didn't have high expectations for the famous barrier reef that stretches out about 60 nm from the northern tip of the lagoon, along the east side and down the southern side of Kadavu. But it's mindboggling: a great variety of healthy coral and tons and tons of fishies!! We used the calm summer weather to anchor on the outer reef and enjoy the passes.

(40 photos)

Here are some pictures of the lovely little island Yabu that is home to a few thousand red-footed boobies and frigate birds!

Yabu bird island

Just north of Ono lies a tiny islet that is traditionally "tabu" (meaning taboo: locals told us that nobody is allowed ashore to protect the seabird colonies) and on top of that an officially recognised wildlife sanctuary! We anchored close to the island to observe the birds, but did not go ashore.

(20 photos)

Here are some impressions of pretty Ono, just 45 nm south of Suva, but away from it all

Christmas in Ono

We love the pretty, little islands on the northern tip of the Kadavu archipelago! We made friends in the friendly village of Nabouwalu on Ono and spent Christmas there.

(29 photos)

We have only found a handful of islands with seabird colonies in Fiji, so when we heard that little Yabu here in the island cluster just north of Kadavu is a bird sanctuary we were thrilled and wanted to check it out. Locals told us nobody’s allowed ashore (they only go there to pick up the natural fertilizer the birds produce, very clever!) and there’s a sign as well for visitors warning them not to introduce pests and not to disturb the birds.
The little island is very exposed, but with the light winds we managed to anchor off the southern side on a big, sandy spot and enjoyed the scenery: lots of Pisonia trees, some ironwood, some pandanus, great to see such a mixed, endemic vegetation and saw some frigate birds circling. But where were the boobies that are supposed to live here??
GONE FISHING! In the evening a few thousand red-footed boobies returned and we watched the spectacle of them arriving in little groups and formations, some high in the sky, others with their wings nearly brushing the sea, trying to avoid the circling frigate birds that are always ready to descend with a shrill cat-like sound to free an innocent boobie of the hard-earned fish he’s carrying. The branches ashore quickly filled up with birds, everyone trying to find a sleeping branch for the night, squabbling, roaring and squawking until they all had settled down for the night