We reached the largest village of Kuna Yala, Ustupu, after motoring (as almost always here in the rainy season) 15 miles up from Isla Pinos. A place to buy cheap beer (yea!), to check the internet (WiFi at the school), and to leave quickly again. It’s not a very pretty place and people are rather unfriendly.

The local coast guard station checked our papers. Our cruising friend Damien on SY Satchmo, who arrived half an hour after us, has got his papers confiscated while he stays here, because he has not yet officially checked in into Panama. This is the first time we hear that a village in Kuna Yala takes care of these formalities…

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