Surprise, suprise, after postponing the departure from Tahanea (or should I say Smurf Island?) so often, that we didn’t really believe anymore we’d actually leave at some point ;-) , we used a perfect looking weather window (light breeze from the southeast with calm seas) to sail out yesterday. Of course the passage wasn’t as easy as expected, instead of gliding majestically under full sails on a peaceful ocean we ended up clause-hauled and reefing down completely in order to arrive after dawn and just before slackwater in the pass. Anyway, now we’re in Makemo, a large atoll with a big settlement and we’ve been told several(!) minimarkets. At the moment we’re tugged in behind the protection of a reef halfway down the lagoon to sit out the still lively breeze (the anchorage in front of the village is too open).

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