We sailed up from Fatu Hiva to Tahuata the day before yesterday, using the last puff of a good easterly breeze before the calm arrived we’re having now. The last days in Fatu Hiva were wonderful (except for the sleepless nights because of the rolling on the boat and the terribly starved dogs ashore), we hiked to the gorgeous waterfall even twice and enjoyed swimming in the cold freshwater pool (the only real refreshment in this heat–the sea temperature’s up to 30 degrees…). On the last day we even managed to straighten the shank of our Danforth anchor using a heavy piece of steel pipe from the village. We had accidentally bent the shank when lifting our stern anchor in Nuku Hiva.
Now we are anchored in Vaitahu. The bays of Tahuata get fuller with sailing boats every day now as the festival in Hiva Oa is getting closer. In the bay of Vaitahu the swell is also entering from 2 directions, but with the help of a stern anchor we’re rather comfy. Dinghy landings are rather adventurous on the exposed dock where the waves break metre high (even there you need a stern anchor), but the walks through the picturesque village and the fertile mountains are worth the hassle.