That’s Magic

Yesterday we returned to Tahanea’s beautiful south, as the weather’s turned excellent again: blue sky with puffy cumulus and a light southerly breeze. Before we had a couple of overcast, oppressive days while the fringe of a front became stationary over our area and brought northerly winds. So we had to stay in the (in our opinion) boring northern part. Now, the fine weather is… Continue reading »


Another Article in Ocean7 Magazine

There is another of Birgit’s articles in the current issue of Ocean7. This time it’s about general cruising life. Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Cruisen — Leben unter Segeln, OCEAN7 06 (November/Dezember) 2014, p. 30–35. download PDF (in German only)


Not bored at all

We’ve already been a month on Tahanea, and we’re still not getting bored. Even though we get up at sunrise at 6 the days are not long enough to fit in everything we’ve got (and want) to do. Those of you who know us personally won’t be surprised that many of our activities circle around food and its preparation. Baking bread, tending to the boat… Continue reading »


Gone fishing

We usually don’t fish in lagoons. First, because we enjoy watching colourful reef fishies more than eating them and second, in many parts of the tropics reef fish and their predators have ciguatera, a nerve poison that accumulutes in fish, is harmless for them, but harmful to mammals. Some atolls are said to be free of ciguatera, some kinds of fish too (at least small… Continue reading »



Neighbouring islands like Fakarava attract tourists with drift dives through ‘walls of sharks’. We suppose that the resorts feed the sharks to get such numbers, because here without fishermen cleaning their catch or other attractions we see some sharks on every snorkel or dive, but never big groups. In the passes we saw some black-tip and grey reef sharks and a white-tip reef shark resting… Continue reading »


Sounds of a motu

This morning dawned completely calm (dawn’s around half past four, we’re in a funny time zone…). Without the constant noise of the wind and just the far thundering of the outer reef (the reef’s so broad here that the breakers are about half a mile away) we could clearly hear the sounds of the awakening motu next to us. The chirping, squeaking, cackling, shrieking and… Continue reading »


Swimming Pool

Yesterday the situation we had prepared for ocurred: a sudden 180-degree windshift to the south, the wind picked up to 20-30 knots within minutes and a cloudy sky that made the reefs invisible–luckily we just had to put on our rain gear and follow our GPS track to get safely back over the 8 miles to the sheltered anchorage on the southern side of the… Continue reading »


Not just round and flat

Most cruisers hop quickly through the Tuamotus, only spending a few days on one atoll before heading to the next. We imagine that when they see the first one they think ‘wow, it’s round and flat with coconut palms!’ at the second one ‘aha, round and flat’ and the third ‘hmm, suprise, round and flat’ and so on . We’ve been in Tahanea now for… Continue reading »


Curacao article published in current All-At-Sea Caribbean

Birgit’s article ‘Spanish Waters?-a floating town’ has bee published in the current (October) issue of All-At-Sea Caribbean. It’s been quite a while we were cruising the Caribbean so this one might seem slighly out of place/date. Unfortunately, long delays in the publishing process are common and in this particular case the magazin’s editor just recently requested articles on Curacao. If you’re interested in reading it,… Continue reading »


Z-shaped Reef

We spent a few more days in the anchorage in the SE corner. When the wind dropped a bit we did some more exploring around the uncharted lagoon. We motorsailed 9 miles west to an anchorage at the southern reef, avoiding dozens of coral heads on the way and anchored Pitufa behind a Z-shaped reef that comes off the barrier reef giving protection from the… Continue reading »