The dry weather only lasted for a short while, today it’s been pouring down again. In the afternoon a huge bow emerged from the grey clouds and soon after a cruise ship anchored behind us. Apparently there’s lots around in the San Blas during dry season, but it’s the first one we spotted here. Soon after their arrival Kuna canoes paddled to the beach to… Continue reading »


Western Holandes Cays

The weather turned beautiful again yesterday. It’s not just back to normal, which used to mean nice, sunny mornings but then rainy and squally afternoons, no, it’s really beautiful now. It seems Hurricane Sandy sucked away all the humid air and disposed of it further north. After almost a week in Nargana we are now at the outer San Blas Islands again. We wanted to… Continue reading »


Hurricane Sandy

Even though we are well below the hurricane belt, the weather here is still massively affected by Hurricane Sandy. It’s been rainy for days and gusty southerly winds rattle Pitufa violently, but our anchorage at Nargana protects us well from both southerly windwaves and the high northerly swell. So we really should not complain about minor comfort issues such as splashy dinghy rides while massive… Continue reading »


Two new articles in Ocean7

The Austrian sailing magazine Ocean7 has published our articles on the Caribbean coast of Colombia and on cruising with cats on board in the current 06/12 issue. Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Kolumbien — Land der Kontraste, OCEAN7 06 (November/Dezember) 2012. Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Mit Leeloo um die Welt, OCEAN7 06 (November/Dezember) 2012. Continue reading »


River excursion and jungle hike

The last two days have been rainy and windy, presumably thanks to Hurricane Sandy that passed north of us, but the anchorage here in Nargana is well protected from the high swell outside. We enjoy the possibility to browse through the mini-mini-markets and have met new friends here (www.bettiedelmar.blogspot.com). Before the weather turned nasty we used the opportunity to take the dinghy up the nearby… Continue reading »


Photos of the San Blas Islands

Uploading the new photo gallery took several attempts and a lot of patience over the last two days. Finally, here it is:



After a wonderful week of relaxing and snorkeling at Coco Banderos, we moved to the nearby town of Nargana to buy some fresh veggies, some other groceries and gasoline. And of course, after a really long time, to connect to the internet again (hopefully tomorrow at the school. If the connection is good enough, we’ll upload a new picture gallery.) Nargana is a bigger Kuna… Continue reading »


Wonderful Coco Banderos

Yesterday we finally managed to move to another anchorage. The rainy weather the last few days wasn’t encouraging reef navigation. We are glad we used the sunny spell as we are now anchored in the prettiest place we have been so far here in Kuna Yala. We are the only boat here, swaying gently in a deep blue canal surrounded by 3 little islets and… Continue reading »



We’re still in Cayo Holandes enjoying the snorkeling again after a few rainy and stormy days. The anchorage was quiet all week long, but Friday evening suddenly a fleet of powerboats invaded. They had all their lights on (of course also the flashy underwater lights), played loud music and had parties going on with white dressed crew members as waiters. We sat slightly jittery in… Continue reading »


Holandes Cays

Yesterday we moved to one of the most popular anchorages in the San Blas islands: the Holandes Cays. A wide, deep entrance, protection from all sides by islets and reefs, a beautiful setting and clear water–no wonder this place is full with boats in the high season. Fortunately now is low season and so there are only around 10 other boats in our neighbourhood. We… Continue reading »