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2020
31
May

Propaganda and protests in Tahiti

It looks like we won’t have another weather opportunity for at least a week, so we decided to exchange our broken old wind instrument for a new one. Christian’s been up and down the mast 5 times in the past 2 days, getting the old wind instrument off, new one on, pulling cables, etc. Of course that means I’m on duty all the time as… Continue reading »

2020
30
May

Back

After a few hours of clanging and banging with the gennaker collapsing and filling in high waves and little wind we gave up and tacked back to the Gambier. No use damaging material with an unsettled forecast ahead. After 2 days of preparation and 1 day of sailing we’re back where we started from

2020
29
May

Light winds

The weather forecast promised a light, but do-able weather window to reach the Tuamotus. We had a preparation frenzy yesterday, sailed out after dark, drifted around for a bit and motored back into the lagoon–no wind. This morning we try again, the gennaker’s up and flying, but not much wind. We’ll see…

2020
28
May

Birthdays

Today my Mum would turn 80. She dreaded that ‘horrible number’ and said she would not celebrate that birthday… I could not fly home for her funeral, but I had a flight booked in May to be at her grave today. Now with the ongoing Covid-19 crisis there are still no flights going to/from French Polynesia and nobody knows when and it what form (with… Continue reading »

2020
24
May

Mara’amu

French Polynesia has recently allowed boat traffic between archipelagos again (no flights yet). Therefore everybody here in the Gambier is eager to leave, because winter has arrived with a strong, cold Southeasterly (mara’amu) howling over the islands. Even though the direction of this mara’amu would be good to sail to the warm Tuamotus, conditions are a bit too rough to be fun (4 m waves),… Continue reading »

2020
17
May

Seven years in French Polynesia

On May 17 2013, exactly seven years ago we arrived in French Polynesia for the first time after a 24 day passage from Galapagos. Misled by popular sailing guides we had thought it prudent to wait until the end of the cyclone season, not knowing that this meant the end of summery weather here in the Gambier Islands. We stuck around until August and then… Continue reading »

2020
12
May

How to cruise in the Tuamotus

Due to the Covid-19 crisis all inter-island travel was forbidden in French Polynesia and boats arriving from Panama/Mexico/Chile/etc. have been ‘piling up’ in the Marquesas and Gambier. It looks like some inter-island travel may be allowed soon and then a fleet will head for the atolls of the Tuamotus. As we’ve been around the area for 7 years now (and we move a lot and… Continue reading »

2020
04
May

Cruiser community

Cruisers traditionally have a strong sense of community, but big anchorages are like big towns–you don’t know your neighbours and you don’t greet people on the streets (e.g. in Tahiti, Marina Taina). In the Gambier there are usually not too many boats around during cyclone seasons, so we tend to know most of them, but with new boats arriving and leaving it’s hard to meet… Continue reading »