ende

2020
22
Sep

Biosphere reserve? My arse…

We sailed to Aratika a few days ago, sailed along the western outer reef (the biosphere protected zone) and were already disappointed to see only very few birds in the air. We arrived with easterly winds and after going through the pass, we altered course to sail across the lagoon to the SE corner (close-hauled pointing as close to the wind as possible), when a… Continue reading »

2020
19
Sep

Forest fires

Here in French Poly it’s ‘tradition’ to burn islands to ‘clean’ them from shrubs, so it’s easier to pick up coconuts and make copra (and a few bucks). Of course this way no humus can build up, birds lose their habitat and what remains is a barren rock with some palm trees on it. Whenever we go ashore and find a burnt motu we come… Continue reading »

2020
14
Sep

Not enough efforts to protect environment

Fakarava and its neighbouring atolls are a UNESCO biosphere reserve: a program for ‘conservation of biodiversity with its sustainable use’. Unfortunately there’s not much wildlife left ashore that could be protected–copra industry and a rather large population have shied away most birdlife. Fakarava’s famous for its many grey reef sharks in the south pass and several dive operators and of course the ‘pensions’ ashore depend… Continue reading »

2020
11
Sep

Rapa Iti remains closed

Rapa Iti, the southernmost of the Austral Islands, has no airport and only one supply ship a month. When the Covid crisis started, they very reasonably decided that they couldn’t take any risk and closed their bay for all ships (except the Tuhaa Pae supply ship). Only family returning to Rapa Iti was allowed to travel on that ship and they have to stay in… Continue reading »

2020
11
Sep

Cruising in times of Covid19

French Polynesian officials have announced the first 2 deaths: an elderly couple (both 81) died at the hospital in Papeete this week, more than 800 cases have been registered since July 15. Of course those numbers are still very low in comparison to many other countries, but it’s still alarming… The majority of the sailboats that were either here before or have arrived this year… Continue reading »

2020
09
Sep

Article on our Mooring Project for Rapa Iti in Yachtrevue Magazine

Christian Feldbauer, Birgit Hackl: Mit Rat und Tat–Eine Muring für Rapa Iti, Yachtrevue, August 2020, p.40–43.

2020
09
Sep

Just quickly order some things…

Yesterday we sailed over from Apataki to Fakarava (a rough ride despite a very benign weather forecast) as we urgently have to do some internet chores. In July we were told by other cruisers how easy it was to have things sent from the US by containership: just get an account at DGX, have stuff sent to their store house and they send it on.… Continue reading »

2020
05
Sep

Strangely empty Apataki

There is a haul-out place in the SE corner of Apataki, so we did not expect much wildlife there–surprisingly enough the bommies were quite lively with relatively healthy coral and some small fishies. There were even a few terns flying around. Sailing up the eastern side we were happy to see lots of endemic shrubs, so we expected nesting birds–but nothing. The motus are silent… Continue reading »