On the hike to the waterfall we made our first acquaintance with the famous no-nos: tiny flies that bite relentlessy despite mosquito repellent. The locals recommend monui (scented coconut oil) to keep them off, but as we had to wade through the river a dozen times on the way everything got washed off anyway and during our lunch break at the waterfall we provided lunch… Continue reading »



After 2 years of cruising we’d advise everybody who’s setting out with similar plans from Europe or the US to bring several pairs of good walking shoes along. Cruiser’s life’s hard on the shoes, they’re exposed to tropical sunlight, get immersed into saltwater from time to time and have to be washed regularly because of muddy hikes. Our high quality trekking sandals gave up after… Continue reading »


Hakaui valley and Vaipo waterfall

Today, we went by dinghy to the neighbouring bay and village, Hakaui, where the path into the Hakaui valley to the Vaipo waterfall starts. Landing the dinghy looked scary amidst the many breaking waves. The tide was high enough though, and we could go over a sand bank into the small river. The village was larger than we expected and it looks almost manicured with… Continue reading »


Baie Hakatea

The swell got worse again in Taiohae during the last few days and the constant pitching and rolling (despite a stern anchor) made life quite strenuous on the boat. So this morning we said good-bye to our friends Fabio and Lisa. We’d met them and their boat ‘Amandla’ in the Gambier and spent the past few evenings together–it’s amazing how cruising life brings completely different… Continue reading »


Surfing and ailments

While daring surfers ride the high waves on the beach behind Pitufa, Pitufa’s crew’s limited to surfing on the internet… We haven’t had a good connection in months are now placing orders for spareparts for the boat, researching for new articles, catching up with e-mails and other cruiser’s blogs. Today we decided to also use the opportunity of having a proper hospital (one doctor on… Continue reading »



After spending so much time in quiet, remote areas, Taiohae, the little maintown of Nuku Hiva, seems like a bustling metropolis to us. Suddenly we have to look for traffic before crossing a road, the range of goods in the ‘magasin’ (almost big enough to be called a supermarket) seems mindboggling, there’s several hotels, restaurants and a daily veggie market with local produce. The island’s… Continue reading »


Article on Kuna Yala in Ocean7 magazine

The current issue (September/October 2013) of Ocean7 features our article about Kuna Yala. Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Kuna Yala — Paradies mit Ecken und Kanten, OCEAN7 05 (September/Oktober) 2013, p. 24–29. download PDF (in German only)


New photo gallery: Tahuata


Nuku Hiva–biggest island of the Marquesas

During the last few days it got uncomfortable in the bays of Tahuata, first it poured down for days and the wind picked up and the easterly swell somehow made it into the bays on the western side. Pitufa rocked and rolled, so yesterday we decided to check out a bay just a few miles north on the northcoast of Hiva Oa, the neighbouring island… Continue reading »


Rainy days

Ever since we’ve arrived in Hanamoenoa, the northernmost bay on the western side of Tahuata, it’s been pouring down. And the forecast doesn’t look much different for the next couple of days. Not much fun, but o.k. to get some work done.


Photos of Fatu Hiva

We are currently sitting in a minimarket in Vaitahu on Tahuata and are finally, after about a month or so, able to access the internet again. So we’ve just uploaded pictures of our first island of the Marquesas, Fatu Hiva.


Fruity Days on Pitufa

After our successful fruit and veggie raid in Hapatoni, we now have to use up all the all too quickly ripening fruit to stay ahead of rot and decay. Yesterday we had banana-mango-salad for lunch, a banana smoothie in the afternoon, breadfruit curry for dinner and banana daiquiris as a dessert Today the Aranui (a combined caro-passenger vessel) stopped in Vaitahu–the whole village prepares for… Continue reading »


Dolphins and mangos

On the chart Hapatoni didn’t look very tempting, but we’re glad we stopped here. We’ve had a large pod of dolphins staying in our bay for two days, hunting, jumping, playing around Pitufa The village is neat and pretty, and we took a walk on the coastal road leading along the bays and over the cliffs under an azure blue sky–it came as a surprise… Continue reading »



This morning we had coffee at 4.30 and lifted the anchor at 5.20 to make sure that we’d make it to our next destination during daylight. As Fatu Hiva was still towering behind us, we could already see the silhouette of the next island 45 miles ahead of us. Despite the light wind (only between 10 and 14 knots) Pitufa sailed steady 5-6 knots in… Continue reading »