We have a shipment arriving in Honiara, the capital of the Solomons, mid May (new solar panels, a new anchor chain, etc. coming on a container ship), so we should slowly make our way southeast towards Honiara before the trade winds set in. No problem, we thought, even though there’s not much wind we’ll just do short hops with little puffs of wind, it’s only… Continue reading »
2025
28
Apr
Squid egg spread
We often have groups of squid and cuttlefish hanging out around the boat. They are really interesting to watch communicating with each other with intricate changes of colour, swimming forwards, backwards and even sideways looking like aliens. We always wondered why they were so interested in the anchor chain, now we know: they are looking for a convenient substrate to attach their eggs! The poor… Continue reading »
2025
19
Apr
Shopping in Gizo
We’ve just spent two days anchored off Gizo, one of the bigger towns of the Solomons, but it’s really just a village. The anchorage would be rough in trade wind conditions, but it was nicely calm and protected in NW winds (when we were there). Gizo has the mouldy charm of one of the less charming Caribbean islands with (corroded) corrogated iron everywhere, muddy streets… Continue reading »
2025
12
Apr
Bleached, dying, dead
Have you ever cried into a diving mask? I did today when we were snorkeling on the reef off Vella Lavella (Solomon Islands). We had visited the village of Leona before and were thrilled to hear that they are thinking of the future and have been protecting their reef for 20 years(!) with no-fishing zones. Additionally they have now created a conservation area in the… Continue reading »
2025
29
Mar
Logging in the Solomons
In Taro we saw a big freighter loading logs and asked the guys at customs and immigration about it: they said that logging was done on a big scale by Malayan companies. Asked about regulations for reforestation they just sadly smiled and shook their heads–theoretically maybe, but neither the logging companies nor the land owners actually replant trees. So lush rain forest is turned into… Continue reading »
2025
27
Mar
Arrived in the Solomon Islands!
We’ve checked in at Taro Island–quick, simple and very pleasant! We contacted customs and immigration ahead (aleonard@customs.gov.sb, samson.korai@commerce.gov.sb), they sent a form each to fill in before arrival. Once we got there we wrote to them again, went to the police station where Alex and Samson checked us in, so no running around searching for offices… We paid 500 SBD fees and were glad to… Continue reading »
2025
26
Mar
Found Nemo in Papua New Guinea!
Nowhere else have we encountered such huge numbers and such a variety of anemones and clown fish subspecies!
2025
20
Mar
Sailing Towards the Horizon as pdf
Are you interested in reading my travelbook, but haven’t ordered one yet as you don’t want to support Amazon? I’ve now converted it into a pdf, scaled it down to a reasonable size (50 MB) and I’m happy to send it as a WeTransfer. The paperback costs 17 euros on Amazon (btw I only get 5 per book), but I thought I’d offer the pdf… Continue reading »
2025
15
Mar
No NW monsoon over PNG
Remember our plan to sail up from Vanuatu to the north of PNG using the SE trades in order to arrive before December when the wind collapses and then sail back from northern PNG to the Solomons using the NW monsoon that’s supposed to blow over PNG from December to March? Well, that didn’t work out: the winds got very light (but predominantly east) in… Continue reading »
2025
06
Mar
6 months of Smurfy and we’re still struggling
Smurfy’s the most stubborn person I’ve ever met (of any species and that includes my own pighead), fiercely independent and rebellious–not ideal features of a ship’s cat. None of the cats we’ve had before prepared us for this struggle… Sometimes we’re close to giving up, but then he shows his adorable, dotted belly and we’re melting again. Sometimes we suspect that he’s not quite sane…… Continue reading »
2025
06
Mar
Pitufino at the boat show in Tulln
Our WiFi gateway Pitufino can be viewed and tried out at the Austrian boat show in Tulln! Of course there’s also a discount of 10%, not just for those shopping at the boat show, but also for everything ordered from the online store–just this week and next week!
2025
03
Mar
Giant giant clams!!
Giant clams rarely get to grow to a size that merits this name. All across the Pacific we hardly ever saw specimen larger than a hand as they are considered too tasty to be left on the reef by locals (and cruisers). Here in PNG we see giants of a meter or more all over the place! Often they are considered a last food reserve… Continue reading »
2025
21
Feb
Even heat-resilient coral dies in 32°C
Seeing healthy coral in waters around and even above 31°C around many islands in PNG gave us hope that coral might be able to adapt to rising temperatures. In French Poly and Fiji we saw horrible bleaching events at 30°C already, but the coral near the equator that is used to all-year-round hot water seemed to cope. But then around the northern islands of New… Continue reading »