The predominant wind direction in the trade wind belt is east. The chain of the Tuamotus is stretched out eastwards from Tahiti, so in order to reach them and then to hop from atoll to atoll, it’s best to wait for a trough or low to move by close enough, to change the wind to the N and then NW. We’ve only been in Tikehau for a short while and would like to stay a bit longer, but the weather forecast shows a two-day window of NW winds–too good a chance to let it pass by… We’ll therefore head out towards Fakarava today!

2021
21
Oct
Eastwards
2021
18
Oct
Arrived in Tikehau
We arrived 2 days ago in Tikehau after a rough last day with winds well above 20 knots (feels more when you’re bashing into it close-hauled), went through the pass with first daylight and were glad to have tracks inside the lagoon from a previous visit. That early in the morning with the sun low above the horizon it’s impossible to spot coral heads under the glittery surface of the sea, so following a GPS track is the only safe way to make it to the protected side of the lagoon.
It’s been blowing hard ever since, but we managed to get the foresail down in between 2 squalls, dry it in between 2 squalls, so we can repair it today: during the rough passage the seams of a previous repair got ripped out–today we’ll put double seams that’s for sure
2021
15
Oct
Slow start
We had slow start and the wind didn’t pick up until the evening, so we won’t make Makatea in daylight. We have therefore changed course towards Tikehau instead. The wind is now steady from the ESE and we’re doing 5 knots. 108 miles to go at 7:00 local time.
2021
14
Oct
2021
14
Oct
Velvet Paws available in the animal shelter Linz
The animal shelter of the city of Linz (Austria) is also putting our book about Leeloo on display, 5 Euros per book are dedicated to support their wonderful work. Thinking about all those abandoned velvet paws there who are waiting for a new family makes my heart ache… If you’re considering enriching your life with a pet, don’t buy a kitten or puppy from a breeder, but check out your local animal shelter and give an abandoned cat (or dog) the chance to enjoy life again.
Thanks a lot to the folks at Tierheim Linz: https://www.tierheim-linz.at/

2021
14
Oct
On Velvet Paws towards a good cause
Dr. Schneck, the vet in Graz (Austria) who helped us getting all our vaccinations, certificates and titer timings right, has agreed to put up “On Velvet Paws Towards the Horizon” in his veterinary clinic. 5 EUR per book go to a local animal protection organisation.
Thanks Dr. Schneck!
https://www.tierarzt-schneck.at/
2021
11
Oct
2021
04
Oct
Our article about atoll passes in the Cruising World Magazine
Cruising World has been one of the world’s leading sailing magazines for 30 years, so it’s a bit of an honour to get published there
Our article about atoll passes is in the current October issue: “Tackling the Pacific atoll passes” explains the variety of factors that determine currents and gives advice on how to enter and exit atolls safely.
2021
03
Oct
We’re writing for Boating New Zealand!
We already have a nice list of prestigious sailing magazines where our articles are regularly featured, but we’re happy to announce that from now on you’ll find articles made on Pitufa also Down Under! Boating New Zealand, NZ’s number one selling and largest boating magazine, has our article about the pitfalls of modern navigational aids in the October issue. “Blinded by Tech” warns that proper seamanship, watches and a look-out can’t be replaced by gadgets
Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Blinded by Tech, Boating New Zealand, Oct. 2021, p. 124–127. Read online.
2021
02
Oct
Ship’s Cat Article in All-at-Sea Magazine
Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Ten Years Cruising with a Ship’s Cat, All At Sea Caribbean, Oct. 2021, p. 52–54. Download the whole magazine for free.
2021
21
Sep
Whales!
From July until November humpback whales migrate up to warm waters, where the females give birth in the protection of lagoons, undisturbed by large predators (and hopefully humans). During those months you can often see groups of whales near outer reefs, sometimes in passes or even anchorages. Due to the lock-down we haven’t moved much this year, so we’ve only had our first whale encounter of the season today. We only saw them from far away, some broad, black backs and then the huge tail fins waving good-bye as they dived down. Hopefully we’ll get lucky and some of those gentle giants will come closer to the boat soon!

2021
11
Sep
Common sense
French Polynesia has been in a lock-down now for 2 weeks. Low vaccination rates led to an explosion in cases after the delta variant arrived and really made this lock-down necessary. We fully agree that measures were needed to limit the spreading of Covid here. Yes, it makes sense to prohibit sports events and group activities where people gather. But why harass surfers and paddlers who are out alone? The police seriously goes out into the lagoon to check whether they have filled out a form and somehow carry it with them (you ARE allowed physical exercise, but only with a form in your pocket). Why limit opening hours of shops? The result is that more people crowd the shops at the same time… The police are stopping cars and pedestrians to check whether they carry their forms and I did not see them disinfecting their hands in between checks. Vaccinations are given without appointments, so unvaccinated people are encouraged to queue in front of the centers…
Some common sense–both from the authorities and from the people–is needed in this situation. Avoiding crowds, wearing a mask and washing hands is not that difficult.
We just try to stay away from it all in the meantime in our autonomous little nutshell…

2021
08
Sep
“On Velvet Paws Towards the Horizon” is now available as an e-book!!
Those of ship’s cat Leeloo’s fans who are roaming remote places can now get the kindle version of her adventurous life. Usually internet is way too pricey here in Fr. Poly to tackle big uploads, but Vini (mobile phone provider) gave out lock-down data presents and I used it all up to create an e-book! Available now on Amazon
2021
05
Sep
Article in Yachtrevue Magazine
Birgit Hackl, Christian Feldbauer: Und ewig lockt der Horizont–Zehn Jahre unter Segeln, Yachtrevue, Sep. 2021, see teaser online.
2021
27
Aug
Shark photos
We love sharks
Here are some impressions of our encounters and experiences with different species.
We love sharks!
Sharks are relentlessly hunted in many areas for their fins and (cheap) meat. Here in French Polynesia they are protected, but illegal shark fishing boats come into coastal waters anyway, local fishermen kill them as competition and worried parents fear for their children and kill them along beaches. Big species (great whites, tiger sharks) are indeed dangerous for swimmers, but accidents occur seldom. The reef sharks we meet in lagoons are curious and harmless. Bigger species (lemon sharks, hammerheads, pelagic white tips) have become rare here and they are usually only aggressive, when there's blood in the water (when people are spearfishing).
(18 photos)











