ende

2020
20
Jun

Dawn on the wrong side

We’re in the trade wind belt, so the wind usually blows from somewhere between Southeast and Northeast. When a Northwesterly comes it’s normally during or at the onset of a depression or trough, but this time it slowly clocked from the Northeast to the Northwest with sunny skies because the trough is rather weak. We’ve used this unusual weather to explore the western side of the atoll.
As I’m writing this blog (with the laptop on the bimini to find a few bars of mobile phone connection) the seldom visited motus ahead of us awake with red-footed boobies roaring, reed warblers singing and terns adding their shrill calls. There’s not many places left where you can listen to this morning choir anymore… Behind me the sunrise paints the sky in a bright orange that fades to a dark purple above me with the last stars twinkling faintly.

Today the wind is expected to turn to the west and we’ll use this breeze to sail trough the bommie-strewn lagoon all the way down to the Southeast corner as there’s a mara’amu (strong Southeasterly) precidicted for tomorrow (and a couple of days).

2020
15
Jun

Approaching Raroia

Last night the wind turned into a light breeze–ideal timing or we would have arrived too early. Now we’re sailing down the western side of Raroia towards the pass, it’s a beautiful sunny morning, just a few tiny rainclouds around and we hope to catch one of them as Pitufa’s in dire need of a boatwash. In the shade of the island it’s calm, so Leeloo has declared the passage for over and has left her sea berth for a second breakfast (during a rough passage she only gets up for urgent errands–water, toilet and back to bed) ;-)

2020
14
Jun

Fast passage

The fast ride goes on, fortunately it’s the tack heeling towards the galley, so cooking’s still okay… We’ve had the lure out since we left, just the right conditions for an oh-no-not-now fishy, but still no luck. Apart from that the fourlegged and twolegged crew are doing well. 100 nm to go!

2020
13
Jun

Fast sailing

The squally weather continues, not much fun, but at least we’re fast, averaging 6 knots. 235 nm to go!

2020
12
Jun

Unpleasant night

Last night one squall followed the other, keeping the watch busy. We had mostly 20 knots from the NE, gusting 30. Now conditions have settled a bit. 370 nm to go!

2020
11
Jun

Sunny day

It’s a sunny day, lighter winds, so we’re going a bit slower, but it’s very comfy sailing. 510 nm (out of 600) to go to Raroia!

2020
11
Jun

Sunny day

It’s a sunny day, lighter winds, so we’re going a bit slower, but it’s very comfy sailing. 510 nm (out of 600) to go to Raroia!

2020
10
Jun

Towards the Tuamotus

After a week of stormy, rainy weather we now have stable conditions again, so we set out today at noon for the Tuamotus! 15-20 Knoten aus ONO, Fahrt 5-6 Knoten

2020
02
Jun

Naked in the rain

After a long period of stable weather we saw a convergenze zone with rain and wind afterwards approaching, tucked in and prepared the rain collection system. During breakfast we heard heavy rain pounding on the island next to us and minutes later bucket-loads of water splashed on us. We could see hasty preparations on neighbouring boats–nobody wants to accumulate wet clothes, so people tend to hop around naked, adjusting hoses and spreading canvas… Then a few late-comers got to anchor just in the middle of the downpour.

We have a watermaker, but rain means high-quality water for free, so we’re always happy to catch us much as possible. As soon as the tanks are filled the excitement wears off, so we hope that the predicted week of nasty weather will be cut short.

2020
31
May

Propaganda and protests in Tahiti

It looks like we won’t have another weather opportunity for at least a week, so we decided to exchange our broken old wind instrument for a new one. Christian’s been up and down the mast 5 times in the past 2 days, getting the old wind instrument off, new one on, pulling cables, etc. Of course that means I’m on duty all the time as well, hauling him and bits and pieces up and down whenever he shouts–quite some work-out for both of us ;-)

While everything’s nice and relaxed on the outer islands, we hear from friends in Tahiti that the situation there is getting precarious. The former official anchorage off Marina Taina is supposed to be closed down soon, therefore lots of cruisers anchored off the airport and got stuck during the Covid confinement. The policy of sending all new arrivals straight to Tahiti to check in there has led to a whole fleet there. Now locals protest against anchored boats and the usual propaganda in the media accuse cruisers to pollute the lagoon without adding to the economy. Completely ridiculous when you consider how much we all spend for groceries, boat parts, etc.
Especially now that no flights get into French Polynesia people should realise that WE are their only tourists here. Instead of pampering us and urging us to spend money they want us to disappear into thin air…

2020
30
May

Back

After a few hours of clanging and banging with the gennaker collapsing and filling in high waves and little wind we gave up and tacked back to the Gambier. No use damaging material with an unsettled forecast ahead. After 2 days of preparation and 1 day of sailing we’re back where we started from ;-)

2020
29
May

Light winds

The weather forecast promised a light, but do-able weather window to reach the Tuamotus. We had a preparation frenzy yesterday, sailed out after dark, drifted around for a bit and motored back into the lagoon–no wind. This morning we try again, the gennaker’s up and flying, but not much wind. We’ll see…

2020
28
May

Birthdays

Today my Mum would turn 80. She dreaded that ‘horrible number’ and said she would not celebrate that birthday… I could not fly home for her funeral, but I had a flight booked in May to be at her grave today. Now with the ongoing Covid-19 crisis there are still no flights going to/from French Polynesia and nobody knows when and it what form (with quarantine on both ends?) travelling will be possible again.
Christian wanted to fly to Austria for a much happier reason–his father will also turn 80 in a week. Unfortunately Christian won’t be there for the celebration…

2020
24
May

Mara’amu

French Polynesia has recently allowed boat traffic between archipelagos again (no flights yet). Therefore everybody here in the Gambier is eager to leave, because winter has arrived with a strong, cold Southeasterly (mara’amu) howling over the islands.
Even though the direction of this mara’amu would be good to sail to the warm Tuamotus, conditions are a bit too rough to be fun (4 m waves), so we’re waiting for the next weather window.

In the meantime we’re busy writing and working on the boat, wearing socks and hoodies in the evenings while having a mulled cider for sundowner (instead of the usual cold beer).

2020
17
May

Seven years in French Polynesia

On May 17 2013, exactly seven years ago we arrived in French Polynesia for the first time after a 24 day passage from Galapagos. Misled by popular sailing guides we had thought it prudent to wait until the end of the cyclone season, not knowing that this meant the end of summery weather here in the Gambier Islands. We stuck around until August and then fled from the cold, rainy and stormy weather up into the heat of the Marquesas.
We never thought then that we’d stay in FP for such a long time. Even though we explored westwards (Cooks and Tonga) twice, we always came back to the Gambier, our ‘cyclone season base’.

Now it’s getting colder again and usually we’d already be in the Tuamotus at this time of the year, but this year sailboats are not allowed to leave the archipelago they were in when the Covid-19 crisis started. We hope that these restrictions will be lifted before the weather gets nasty. Winter is coming…

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