ende

Birgit

Author's details

Name: Birgit
Date registered: September 22, 2010

Latest posts

  1. Back again in Tahiti — November 19, 2020
  2. Schon wieder in Tahiti — November 19, 2020
  3. Gennaker — November 18, 2020
  4. Gennaker — November 18, 2020
  5. Almost like at anchor — November 18, 2020

Most commented posts

  1. Waiting for the right wind — 5 comments
  2. Faultag — 4 comments
  3. Las Palmas de Gran Canaria — 4 comments
  4. Englishman’s Bay — 4 comments
  5. Freundliches Grenada — 4 comments

Author's posts listings

2020
30
Sep

Addition to ‘Wilderness’

Yesterday’s blog entry triggered the following comment from Joachim (SY Atanga). We cannot put it online without internet, but would still like to respond to it, clarify and give more background: “Comment: Why do you think that you are disturbing nature less than anyone else. If you really wanted to preserve the environment, you should fight for: rigid ancoring restrictions , closure of atolls for… Continue reading »

2020
29
Sep

Finally some wilderness!

We are currently in an atoll we have not visited during our previous seasons in the Tuamotus and we are in LOVE and truly happy. It wasn’t easy to come here: we had to navigate through an uncharted, tricky pass and get a special permission to explore the lagoon. All the effort was fully worth it: dozens of untouched motus with endemic vegetation and bird… Continue reading »

2020
25
Sep

Very long day

We got up at 5 this morning, sailed across the lagoon and out of the pass of Aratika (at 8). Again the forecast predicted light conditions for our planned daysail to Kauehi (36 nm) and again we had much more wind and a boisterous sail. This time we had fishing luck though, after an unlucky stretch of a year or so. A big mahi-mahi bit… Continue reading »

2020
22
Sep

Biosphere reserve? My arse…

We sailed to Aratika a few days ago, sailed along the western outer reef (the biosphere protected zone) and were already disappointed to see only very few birds in the air. We arrived with easterly winds and after going through the pass, we altered course to sail across the lagoon to the SE corner (close-hauled pointing as close to the wind as possible), when a… Continue reading »

2020
19
Sep

Forest fires

Here in French Poly it’s ‘tradition’ to burn islands to ‘clean’ them from shrubs, so it’s easier to pick up coconuts and make copra (and a few bucks). Of course this way no humus can build up, birds lose their habitat and what remains is a barren rock with some palm trees on it. Whenever we go ashore and find a burnt motu we come… Continue reading »

2020
14
Sep

Not enough efforts to protect environment

Fakarava and its neighbouring atolls are a UNESCO biosphere reserve: a program for ‘conservation of biodiversity with its sustainable use’. Unfortunately there’s not much wildlife left ashore that could be protected–copra industry and a rather large population have shied away most birdlife. Fakarava’s famous for its many grey reef sharks in the south pass and several dive operators and of course the ‘pensions’ ashore depend… Continue reading »

2020
11
Sep

Rapa Iti remains closed

Rapa Iti, the southernmost of the Austral Islands, has no airport and only one supply ship a month. When the Covid crisis started, they very reasonably decided that they couldn’t take any risk and closed their bay for all ships (except the Tuhaa Pae supply ship). Only family returning to Rapa Iti was allowed to travel on that ship and they have to stay in… Continue reading »

2020
11
Sep

Cruising in times of Covid19

French Polynesian officials have announced the first 2 deaths: an elderly couple (both 81) died at the hospital in Papeete this week, more than 800 cases have been registered since July 15. Of course those numbers are still very low in comparison to many other countries, but it’s still alarming… The majority of the sailboats that were either here before or have arrived this year… Continue reading »

2020
09
Sep

Just quickly order some things…

Yesterday we sailed over from Apataki to Fakarava (a rough ride despite a very benign weather forecast) as we urgently have to do some internet chores. In July we were told by other cruisers how easy it was to have things sent from the US by containership: just get an account at DGX, have stuff sent to their store house and they send it on.… Continue reading »

2020
05
Sep

Strangely empty Apataki

There is a haul-out place in the SE corner of Apataki, so we did not expect much wildlife there–surprisingly enough the bommies were quite lively with relatively healthy coral and some small fishies. There were even a few terns flying around. Sailing up the eastern side we were happy to see lots of endemic shrubs, so we expected nesting birds–but nothing. The motus are silent… Continue reading »

2020
25
Aug

Arrived in Apataki

We arrived during the night, slowed down and tacked up and down fishing–no luck… At 8 the pass looked do-able (still quite some standing waves inside the pass, so wind against current, not so ideal), but the pass is so wide that we went in anyway, were tossed around a bit, but not too badly. Now we’re sailing close-hauled again to the S side of… Continue reading »

2020
25
Aug

Many factors to consider

‘Sailing where the wind takes us’ sounds romantic, but in the end chosing an atoll relies on many factors: we have to reach it tacking through neighbouring atolls so the wind must play along, atolls have only tiny openings that are greatly affected by tidal currents and a yacht must never try to enter with wind against current (resulting in high, standing waves) and thirdly… Continue reading »

2020
23
Aug

Towards the Tuamotus

260 confirmed Covid-19 cases in French Polynesia, the president announced ‘new measures’ for Monday–it’s good timing that we’re fully provisioned, prepared and ready to go. The SE wind (mara’amu) that was blowing strongly for the last few days is easing off a bit and we should have good conditions to set out towards the Tuamotus. Over 70 ring atolls are out there–we’ll set the windvane… Continue reading »

2020
19
Aug

Fuel consumption

We went to the petrol station this morning to top up our diesel tank and jerry cans–180 litres and we were full again. To us living on a sailboat means being close to nature and treading lightly, so we try to use less than 300 l a year. The boat before us (German sailboat, young, hip couple) had taken a long time, so I asked… Continue reading »

2020
17
Aug

130 new Covid cases

Despite all safety measures it looks like the opening of borders resulted in the second Covid wave we dreaded. In the last month 130 cases were recorded in Tahiti–at the moment the counter hops up by a dozen on a daily basis. Of course that’s nothing compared to other countries, but still very worrying in a large island nation with 67 inhabited islands, but only… Continue reading »

Older posts «

» Newer posts