ende

2025
07
Dec

Fusion food with local ingredients

I get a real kick out of inventing creative dishes with only local ingredients, so cool to eat something that has never been made in that form before AND tastes good ;-)
On the Polynesian outliers here in Micronesia not much is grown, just breadfruit, papaya, bananas and taro (and we’re not big fans of taro). Fortunately both breadfruit as well as papaya are super-versatile cuisine ingredients and can be made into a range of dishes. The locals eat papaya as a sweet fruit when ripe and breadfruit is usually either grilled whole in an open fire or boiled and mashed into a pulp (poi).

I like to use papaya mainly while it’s still dark green, then it can pose as a range of vegetables: grated as cucumber in a tsatsiki (with yoghurt or kefir), sliced and fried as fake bamboo shoots in a stirfry, or sliced and cooked in a Thai curry or Italian risotto (posing as courgette).
With breadfruit we also try to catch it before it gets soft and sweet. When the fruit is still firm, but no longer rock hard (usually a day or two after picking), I peel it, cut it into wedges and steam those until they get soft (try with a fork, just like with potatoes). Once they are steamed, you can either just fry them as thin wedges in a pan and have them as a side-dish or with dips.
Or you can mash the still hot, steaming wedges into a dough, similar to a potato dough!

Here’s my “recipe” for breadfruit gnocchi with green papaya and tuna sauce. I never weigh ingredients, plus the consistency of the dough depends very much on how ripe the breadfruit was, how soft it’s steamed, etc., so I can’t give you exact measurements, it’s more like a guideline to get going and creative with breadfruit yourself, if you’re out here in the Pacific!

Take 1 small breadfruit or half a big breadfruit and steam it for 10 to 20 minutes on the stove until soft. Take the smoking hot pieces, cut them into pieces, add an egg (if you have one), 2 to 3 spoonful of kassava flour (or potato flour), quite a pinch of salt and mash everything into a dough. If it feels too dry, add another egg (or a little bit of water and olive oil if you’re out of eggs). If it feels to gooey, add a bit more flour ;-)
Form tiny little dumplings, bring a pot with salted water to the boil and throw in the gnocchi. Boil for a couple of minutes, then remove the pot from the fire and let the gnocchi simmer a bit, before draining them in a pasta sieve.

For the sauce: Grate a piece of papaya, chop some garlic and fry those two ingredients lightly in olive oil (salt and pepper according to taste), add tuna pieces and sear them briefly. Add a sip of white wine (or home-brew cider if you don’t have white wine or a few drops of vinegar if you have neither wine nor cider) simmer briefly, add some cream (or milk powder and and a spoonful of corn starch stirred in some water) and serve with the gnocchi!

And here’s a recipe guideline for breadfruit tatties with tuna carpaccio:
Prepare the carpaccio an hour or two ahead. You can either do a classic Italian recipe, but I prefer a somewhat tastier Asianised version: Finely chop sashimi-quality pieces of tuna, add some finely chopped ginger, capers or gherkins and ideally some chopped carrots, leeks or celery (if you have). Spice the carpaccio according to taste with some chopped chilis or chili-oil, fish-sauce, vinegar (from the gherkins) and sesame oil. Mix everything and put it into the fridge.
Steam the breadfruit and make a dough similar to the gnocchi dough, but it doesn’t have to be quite as smooth. You can add seeds (linseed, sunflower seeds, etc.) or oats or whatever you have available. Then form patties and fry them with some olive oil until golden.
Serve the patties hot or cold with the carpaccio, sprinkle some homegrown basil on top (if you have a boat garden) and enjoy with wine or cider, but preferably after a nice day in a turquoise lagoon :-)

2025
29
Nov

Saturday in Kapingamarangi

Saturday’s a busy day in the village, everywhere food is prepared in advance for Sunday, as the strict Christians here don’t light fires on the Lord’s day. We strolled through the village last Saturday, watched the proceedings and were in invited by the chief to join them for dinner. So we went home and started cooking ourselves to be able to contribute to the feast.
Just as we were getting ready to go ashore, the wind picked up during a squall from the west, we quickly started pitching on a leeshore on the eastern side of the atoll. A quick check on windy: they had changed the forecast to NW squalls during the night–impossible to spend the night on the mooring off the village in such conditions. So we quickly wrote an apologetic message to the chief, used the last light to motor to the protected northern corner–and ended up eating the food we had prepared for shore over the next three days while it was raining and blowing.
That’s the cruising life, our schedule is dictated by the wind ;-)

Verona, one of the teachers, gave us some grilled fish and breadfruit as we were walking past

At the chief’s house the family was preparing coconut milk

Grating taro

and preparing buns from wheat flour

The bread oven looks simple

but is actually quite sophisticated with lower and upper heat!

Pigs are tied up everywhere, but they have another few weeks to live–until Christmas…

2025
26
Nov

Pitufino now features remote monitoring!

Cloud Access lets you keep an eye on your boat from anywhere with Internet access. Use Pitufino’s AnchorWatch app while you’re ashore and on the way back from the restaurant to the bay that filled up with other boats, toggle your anchor light to find yours amidst the sea of lights. While your boat is in the marina, monitor your batteries and bilge alarms from home and receive notifications when alarms get triggered.

Cloud Access not only gives you real-time access to your Pitufino, but you can store position reports, logbook entries and soon many other useful data (such as battery stats, weather, or sailing performance) into our database. Thus providing tracking or fleet control services, and soon more such as logbook management and polar diagram creation.

Cloud Access requires your Pitufino to be connected to a router with Internet access, that can be for example your Marina’s Wi-Fi, the hotspot of a mobile phone, a router with SIM card, and for offshore use Starlink or Iridium Go.


2025
25
Nov

Blasting a pass is a crime against nature

The pass of an atoll is the bustling centre of its underwater life with corals providing a home for millions of little swarmfish hiding in delicate species like staghorn, groups of surgeons and parrots as well as couples of butterflies roaming the slopes, groupers and morrays hiding in crevices, swarms of snappers in the deeper water and barracudas, sharks and trevallies passing by. It’s also the most important fishing ground and therefore the base of nutrition for remote communities, like here in Kapingamarangi.
We hardly believed our eyes, when we spotted a poster in the mayor’s office, showing a gigantic underwater blast that produced a water column reaching high into the sky. Imagine the impact of such an explosion with all fish in the vicinity killed, the coral shredded to rubble!Reading the poster, we couldn’t believe that the US were boasting about “expanding the pass” as development aid for the atoll… And that didn’t happen sometime in the last century when people still had no idea about enviromental impacts, no, they committed this crazy operation in 2021!!
We asked the mayor and were told that locals were not allowed in the vicinity of the blast and apparently they were not warned about the impact the blast would have. It was meant to widen the pass, so the supply ship would come into the lagoon, but brace yourselves for the best bit: the supply ship still stays outside despite the wider channel, so the locals still have to go out in their little boats to deliver copra and get their shipments. Nothing achieved, horrible damage done. But I’m sure the project sounded great when it was announced as development aid.
The side of the pass that was blasted is still a lifeless desert of coral rubble with no young recruits growing and no fish around. Money well spent.



2025
21
Nov

I saved a turtle’s life

Turtles are still hunted and eaten on most islands in the Pacific, the only exceptions are touristy places (where the locals are encouraged to protect them as an attraction for visitors) and around very developed areas, where environmental organisations have been raising awareness for the protection of endangered species. We try the same and often include turtles in the presentations we do at schools, explaining their role in the eco-system and how so many die in the nets of big fishing fleets and due to plastic pollution that it’s no longer sustainable for islanders to hunt them like its their tradition… The only places where we’ve met lots of turtles that are not even afraid of humans, has been in very remote, uninhabited places and around islands with strict seventh day adventist churches (as their religion prohibits the consumption of marine animals without scales…).
In Kapingamarangi we see even less turtles when going snorkeling than on the atolls of PNG, where we’ve just come from–only one small specimen so far. Yesterday, our friend Twinson, the policeman, came by with his boat after a fishing trip to offer us some tuna. I was horrified to see a small turtle lying on its back among the fish the three men had caught. I asked if the poor thing was still alive (yes, yes) and tried to explain that it was still very small, too small to be caught, but they just laughed and said it was good meat. So I asked if I could buy it from them, but Twinson refused with a smile, no money needed, I could have it for free. Again I tried to explain that we see so few turtles anymore and that it would be really good to protect them now to still have some for the future, but I don’t think they understood or agreed. Twinson gestured to the boy at the bow, who grabbed the turtle at its flipper and hauled it over the side. I was worried that it was too hurt or weak to swim (it had looked dead in the boat), but the little creature set off like shot from a cannon and was gone from sight within a second.
I hope it has learned its lesson, will give humans a wide berth from now on, and will grow to be a huge, wise, old turtle.
I didn’t take pictures yesterday, but here’s an unafraid specimen we met in the Line Islands :-)

2025
17
Nov

Kapingamarangi, our first stop in Micronesia!

Kapingamarangi–a ringing name that embodies the ideal of remote, pristine Pacific islands for many cruisers. We had already dreamed of coming here, before we even set out cruising–inspired by beautiful photos we had seen at one of the presentations of the “Seenomaden” (a cruising couple who’s famous in Austria).
Last week we arrived here after a bouncy 3 day trip up from the remote islands of Bougainville–and were a bit amused to find the village with its 150 people (about 500 more live in the capital Pohnpei or abroad) more developed and connected with the world than the atolls we had visited before in Papua New Guinea, with a supply ship that calls every 2 months or so, watertanks and solar arrays, a medical centre with a visiting doctor and even a starlink antenna!

We got a very friendly welcome from chief Solomon, who inspected our papers and the cruising permit (you have to apply online in advance from the Federated States of Micronesia), then the police officer Twinson showed us around the two village islands (connected by a bridge) where the people still live in traditional houses. He also gave us a breadfruit, an important part of the village’s staple food: big breadfruit trees grow everywhere next to flooded fields of taro. These starchy sources of carbs together with bananas, papayas, coconuts and of course fish are the traditional diet here. We weren’t lucky fishing on the way here, but friendly fishermen keep dropping off tuna, jacks and rainbow runners they caught out in the pass. Wonderful Polynesian hospitality as we have enjoyed it all over the Pacific :-)
The village islands are densely populated

Chief Solomon

The visiting doc at the medical station

Well developed infrastructure


Women drying breadfrui poi to make it last

Taro fields

Woven mats are used as walls, but also rugs to sit and sleep on

The free WiFi draws villagers of all ages like a magnet ;-)

2025
14
Nov

Water in the bilge

It’s never great when the water alarm in the bilge goes off with a high-pitched BEEEEP, but it’s especially disconcerting when you’re out on the ocean with still 60 nm to go to land… The first step is to lift the floorboard, take out the alarm and silence the deafening noise to be able to think again. The next step is nasty: put a finger into the sloshing brew and taste it–fuck, saltwater!
That’s when simple unease turns into dread.
Fortunately a hasty search for the dripping culprit revealed it was just the watermaker, so we turned it off, got out our cherished Stanley (the wet/dry vacuum cleaner) and Christian quickly got the bilge dry, while I was comforting Smurfy in the aft cabin–Smurfy is terrified of noisy Stanley. And all that on a pitching, rolling boat in light winds and confused seas.
Once we were at anchor, Christian dismounted the feed pump (with the helping paws of Smurfy), changed the pump head and the watermaker’s running again without any leaks!

2025
09
Nov

Crossing the equator!

12 years and 8 months ago we crossed the equator as we were approaching Galapagos and since then we’ve spent all these years exploring the many, beautiful islands of the South Pacific. Today we’re crossing the equator again going north on the way to Micronesia!
It’s been a tricky passage so far: we got NE winds instead of the promised SE, plenty of squalls and to make things even more interesting, 2 knots of west-setting current, so we’re crabbing along slooowly.

2025
23
Oct

How to hypnotise a crocodile

Have you seen videos of people hypnotising chickens and even sharks by rolling them on their backs and stroking them from the collarbone down their belly? I thought that magic might knock out crocodiles as well, so I grabbed ours and behold: it worked!





2025
17
Oct

Smurfy aka Pukpuk monster aka Komodo dragon monster

Remember how we were hoping that Smurfy would be less aggressive with less testosterone in his system? Well, it seemed to work for a while, but then we started noticing that he’s been gaining weight since he was neutered, so we’re feeding him smaller portions. Guess what happens when he’s hungry and cranky? Yep, he gets aggressive…
This morning he was sitting next to his empty food bowl about an hour after he’d had breakfast when I was walking past. He jumped at me, sank his canines into my leg and ran off to hide before I could grab him… We call this kind of ambush “sneaky smurfy snake bite”. Worried about infection from sea water I put hydrocolloid plasters on the bites to seal them off, but then of course there remains the risk of infection from within–cats aren’t exactly famous for the dental hygiene. I suppose they could hunt the way Komodo dragons do, just give their prey a small bite and then leisurely wander after them until they topple over from the infection…
So maybe we should call him Smurfy dragon monster instead of Smurfy pukpuk monster. Pukpuk means saltwater crocodile in the Tok Pisin of Papua New Guinea ;-)

2025
04
Oct

Photos of Buka, Bougainville

Buka, Bougainville, September 2025 (Papua New Guinea)

We visited Buka despite travel warnings and felt really welcome in a safe, clean and friendly town! Pics of our 2 weeks here: the bustling channel and town, the "posh" island Sohano and a road trip we did with our friends.

(34 photos)


2025
26
Sep

Smartphones in Papua New Guinea

It seems like such a culture clash when locals in handmade canoes show up, smartphone in hand to take pictures of our boat. People who live in huts made of woven pandanus, coconut or bamboo with just a single solar light and charger still invest the little money they have into a smartphone… PNG never established a network of landline connections, instead they started putting up towers for cell phones once this technology was available, so having a mobile phone was vital to be connected to the outer world. People here love Facebook and video calls, so they want to have a smart phone ;-)
Very remote communities sometimes don’t have a cell tower, but just a WiFi hotspot–in these cases the people really need a smartphone in order to do their calls via WhatsApp or FB messenger. In places where this hotspot is broken (or never got finished), people race out when they see a sailboat, hoping that they have Starlink aboard: on a remote atoll we had half the village aboard reconnecting with family after many months without any means of communication!



2025
25
Sep

Feeling like celebrities in Bougainville

We’ve never felt so popular before… Many people here have never seen a sailboat before and the normal reaction once we drop anchor is for half the village to rush out by boat or canoe to have a chat and take pictures of us. Yes, here the locals takes photos of the tourists, not the other way round ;-) Of course they are eager to trade, so we have more fruit and veg aboard than we can eat…

Everyone wants to come up to see the boat

And everyone wants to take pics and pose with us for more pics ;-)

Hoisting the flag of Bougainville

Of course we’re welcome to visit the villages in return!

2025
21
Sep

19 kg tuna and no freezer!

This 19 kg yellow-fin tuna was the heaviest fish we ever caught. We use a simple handline for fishing and Christian pulled the big guy in within 5 minutes (no endless fighting and torturing like people with professional fishing gear seem to enjoy). Christian usually just grabs the swivel of the metal leader to hoist fish up to Pitufa’s high stern, but in this case we strapped a gaff hook to the rear end of our boat hook, otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to get him up… Fortunately tuna aren’t big fighters, so it was fairly easy to kill the big fish and let it bleed out.
Smurfy was watching us all the time, inspected the monster-fishy with fascination and was of course the first to get a piece–the only way to get his paws out of the bloody mess and continue cleaning and chopping up the fish.
Whenever we catch a bigger fish, Christian chops thick pieces (about 8 cm, just as long as the ceramic knife I use) still on the aft deck and I then take over in the galley, cutting off skin, bones and bloody bits. In this case it took me about 3 hours: I filled 12 jars to be processed in the pressure cooker and that still left us with 3 plastic boxes (2 kg each) full of sashimi-quality meat to finish between the three of us (Smurfy manages almost the same amount as we do) over the next 8 days (that’s as long as we trust fish in the fridge). About 2 kilos of red, bloody meat went to the stray cats of Taro :-)
When I tell people that we eat fish for lunch and dinner for over a week, I usually don’t get the excited reaction I expect, but a mixture of pity and disgust. Maybe they think we just keep munching an endless repetition of burgers and fish and chips?!
So here’s the menu Christian and I had for our tuna festival. Smurfy thinks cooking ruins fish, so he got sashimi three times a day instead ;-)
1 dinner: seared tuna with wasabi mayonnaise and crackers
2 lunch: carpaccio (with capers, ginger, spring onions)
2 dinner: seared tuna steaks in a creamy carrot and spring onion sauce with rice
3 lunch: tuna burgers
3 dinner: sashimi with rice
4 lunch: spicy ceviche (raw fish with lemon juice and chilis, we added papaya, cucumber, spring onions and spinach greens)
4 dinner: hot Indian tandoori tuna and eggplant in roti flat-bread
5 lunch: tuna salad with cocktail-sauce
5 dinner: poisson cru with rice (French Poly national dish raw fish in coconut, we do a spicier version with ginger, chilis and veg)
6 lunch: tuna sandwiches
6 dinner: Thai curry with rice noodles
7 lunch: tuna dip with tacos
7 dinner: Japanese-style teriyaki tuna steaks with rice
8 lunch: tuna wraps
8 dinner: Indian tuna curry (palau masala) with spicy sweet potatoes + banana chutney



2025
11
Sep

Good-bye Solomons

Solomon Islands

A few impressions of our 6 months in the Solomons between March and September 2025: friendly people, traditional villages, daysails between the islands, successful fishing, tricky anchorages and lots of time in the water as it was HOT.

(36 photos)


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