ende

2014
29
Jan

Subletting

Last Saturday we moved into our little house and at dusk we discovered that life takes place on different levels. At seven o’clock the rooster and his harem of a dozen hens fly up into the tree in front of the house and have quite a row while settling onto the best branches. They clearly live on the highest level here.
Inside the house we soon heard the rustling and squeaking of the rats that live under the roof–so they live on the second level.
That leaves the lowest level for us, the geckos, the mosquitoes and the cockroaches. Technically we seem to be subletting from the rats ;-)
Leeloo finds all these impressions slightly scary, but also exciting…

Now you may ask yourself, why we go through the hassle of sharing a flat with all these creatures when we could be staying on our comfy, clean Pitufa. First it’s a very different experience actually living in a country instead of just viewing it from the anchorage. Second we plan on getting jobs done on Pitufa that wouldn’t be possible while living aboard, particularly with a cat (varnishing, painting the bilge, etc.). Third it’s just nice to have our own garden with breadfruit, pampelmouse, lemons, coconuts and our own beach with a view of pretty Pitufa :-)

2014
22
Jan

On the barrier reef

Initially we wanted to move into our little house today, but when we saw the weather forecast this morning: completely calm, burning hot and sunny. Certainly not the right weather for a sweaty work day ashore, but perfect to spend the day in an unprotected anchorage. Spontaneously we decided to motor to the southwestern corner of the archipelago, where the satellite images promised some sandy spots right behind the outer reef. It was quite nerve wrecking to navigate along the reef with Pitufa floating over a delicate coral garden sprinkled with colourful fishies. Christian at the bow kept asking for the depth, because he couldn’t believe that the corals that seemed to be almost reaching up to the keel in the clear water were actually in a depth of 10 metres… Navigating around coral heads we finally found a perfect spot in a turquoise swimming pool with the darkblue swell of the Pacific breaking in thundering white avalanches not far from us on the submerged barrier reef. We took the dinghy for a snorkeling tour along the reef and found the clearest water and most colourful corals so far. Judging by the way the white tip reef sharks circled us nosily it seems that they don’t get to see too many snorkelers or divers here ;-) It’s astounding that after such a long time in the Gambier archipelago we still find new and even more fascinating spots here. The beauty of this place is hard to describe, we’ll try to load up some pictures soon!

2014
17
Jan

It’s been a while

Remember how we always raved over the cute, mostly empty village on Taravai? Well, now there’s four inhabited houses on Taravai instead of three. After waving goodbye to Birgit’s Mom on the tiny airport yesterday noon, we sailed to the village anchorage and took inventory of our new little land base for the next few months. To be honest it’s more a hut than a house, and we found it already populated by 5000 thousand house spiders (daddy long legs version), 2 puppy sized cockroaches (cocky and roachy seemede as shocked to see humans as we were to see them), a spider the size of a plate (mind you, not a dessert plate), an unknown number of rats (we just found impressively sized droppings and two abondoned nests in the dirty laundry the owners left in the cupboard), 200 geckos, 2 goats, a few hens with little chicks and of course 4 million mosquitoes. In two days of hard work we mowed the kneehigh grass (after repairing the dodgy mower that was apparently the first step to get rid of mosquitoes), raked the leaves into 10 heaps (to be burned, another step against mosquitoes), cleaned the roof in order to get clean water into the tank and swept the house (now there’s 4000 thousand spiders less). We’re happy to keep the geckos, chicken and goats, the rest will hopefully be persuaded to move on. Now we’re back home on Pitufa, feeling quite exhausted, but also satisfied with the quick progress of the work. Soon the house will be ready to move in. It’s been a while since we did things like mowing a lawn… +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Wisst ihr noch, wie wir immer vom suessen, fast leeren Dorf auf Taravai geschwaermt haben? Jetzt gibt’s statt drei schon vier bewohnte Haeuser hier. Nachdem wir Birgit’s Mom am winzigen Flughafen verabschiedet hatten, segelten wir gestern Mittag zur Dorfanchorage auf Taravai und machten eine Bestandsaufnahme unserer neuen, kleinen Landbasis fuer die naechsten paar Monate. Ehrlich gesagt ist es eher eine Huette als ein Haus und ausserdem fanden wir es bereits ziemlich bevoelkert vor: 5000 Hausspinnen (Weberknechtvariante), zwei Kuechenschaben so gross wie kleine Hunde (Cocky und Roachy schienen ebenso von unserem Anblick geschockt wie wir von ihrem), eine tellergrosse Spinne (wohlgemerkt kein Dessertteller), eine unbekannte Zahl Ratten (wir fanden Bemmerl in beeindruckender Groesse und zwei verlassene Nester in der schmutzigen Waesche, die die Eigner im Kasten hinterliessen), 200 Geckos, 2 Ziegen, einige Hennen mit Winzkueken und natuerlich 4 Millionen Moskitos. In zwei Tagen harter Arbeit haben wir das kniehohe Gras gemaeht (erst musste der marode Rasenmaeher repariert werden, dann folgte der erste Schlag gegen die Moskitos), rechten das Laub in 10 zu verbrennende Haufen (auch gut gegen Moskitos), putzten das Dach um irgendwann sauberes Wasser in den Tank sammeln zu koennen, kehrten das Haus (jetzt sind 4000 Spinnen weniger). Wir behalten gern die Geckos, Hennen und Ziegen, der Rest wird sich hoffentlich zum Umzug ueberreden lassen. Jetzt sind wir zurueck daheim auf Pitufa, ziemlich fertig, aber auch zufrieden mit dem Fortschritt der Arbeit. Bald koennen wir in das Haeuschen einziehen. Es ist schon eine Weile her, seit wir das letzte Mal einen Rasen gemaeht haben…

2014
11
Jan

Back to Tauna

We’ve sailed back to the little motu Tauna to enjoy some more swimming, snorkeling, diving and beach walking (the shells here are just irresistable ;-) ) Birgit’s mom’s enjoying her last few days here, the flight back’s going to be long and strenuous (Gambier-Tahiti-L.A.-Paris-Vienna…) Despite the warm weather a virus is going around bringing joint ache, fever, a sore throat and a runny nose to its victims. Birgit had it last week, now it’s Christian’s turn. First we were worried that it was something serious (the symptoms remind of dengue or zika), but fortunately it lasts only 3 days…

2014
05
Jan

Lots of luck in the new year!

There’s only one house on the little island Agakauitai right next to Taravai. Last time we were there only the three little piggies lived there. We were quite surprised to find additional 7 piglets this time. Yesterday we saw from the boat as the whole family took off for a walk on the beach. Quickly we raced there by dinghy. Instead of disappearing into the undergrowth the whole bunch greeted us excitedly and walked further along the beach together with us :-) In German the expression ‘to have pig’ means the same as having luck. With that many pigs we can only be very lucky in 2014!

2014
02
Jan

Article on the Darién in All-At-Sea magazine


Birgit Hackl: The Darién–In the wake of discoverers and pirates, All At Sea Caribbean, January 2014, p. 80–84. Free download from allatsea.net.

2013
24
Dec

Photos of Tauna, Gambier Islands

Impressions of our visit of Tauna in December 2013 while Birgit’s mum was visiting us.

Motu Tauna, Iles Gambier

On the barrier reef in the very east of the Gambier archipelago, the tiny motu Tauna seems to float in a symphony of colours.

(36 photos)

2013
24
Dec

Another Article in All-at-Sea Caribbean Magazine


Birgit Hackl: Cruising with Cats, All At Sea Caribbean, December 2013, p. 42–44. Free download from allatsea.net.

2013
24
Dec

Smurfy Wishes

We wish you all a smurfy Christmas and an equally smurfy new year!

2013
21
Dec

Magical Place

We are anchored off the little motu Tauna in the very east of the archipelago. It’s hard to describe how magical this place is. A painting with such a colour composition of all possible shades of turquoise, blue, and green would only be called kitschy. Indeed, what we get to see looks almost unreal. The motu is only tiny. It’s covered with palm trees which tower above pandanus and a few pine trees and it’s surrounded by a flawless-white sand beach. An equally blinding white sand bank extends the islet to the south. All that is surrounded by turquoise-shinig, crystal-clear water. The pristine corals and their inhabitants sparkle. Further away into the lagoon, the turquoise turns gradually into blue. On the outer side of the barrier reef mighty waves brake over the coral, forming towering masses of white and producing a constant roar to add acoustically to the composition. Beyond that the Pacific drops off into endless deep azure. Hard to believe that it took us so long to discover this magical spot!

2013
19
Dec

Sugar Quest

The pre-christmas shopping frenzy has reached as far as the remote Gambier islands–everybody’s stocking up to bake and make pig champagne. The shops have been without sugar for a month, last time the supply ship arrived sugar was sold out within 2(!) hours. Yesterday the next one arrived and we started asking at the shops immediately, were sent away 3 times (not yet unpacked), but successful at the fourth attempt. Now we can bake christmas cookies :-)
Now that we’ve stocked up we’ll head out to a tiny little motu on the outer reef, to snorkel and relax :-)

2013
15
Dec

Guest on Pitufa

Birgit flew to Tahiti at the beginning of December to pick up her Mom at the airport and to do some shopping (she bought lots of goodies at the big carrefour in Papeete and put them in a packet on a supply ship that will arrive here next week). After a whole week in hot, humid, busy Papeete it was just great to get back to the idyllic Gambier archipelago and to Pitufa. Home sweet home! Christian spent his week alone mainly in front of the computer making the google maps work again on our web site–good for Leeloo who had him all for herself for a while ;-) Now we’re taking Birgit’s mom to our favourite spots in the archipelago starting (of course) with Taravai :-)

2013
03
Dec

Shadowmail for Winlink and Satphone users?

Sailmail offers a service called shadowmail to their subscribed clients. It allows users to monitor their land-based, non-Sailmail e-mail accounts via low-bandwidth Sailmail and to forward messages when requested. It even integrates nicely into the Airmail software, showing theses shadow folders like normal mailboxes. (See the official info page for more information.) For cruisers such a service is definitely a useful thing.

I am not a Sailmail member, but, like most other cruising HAM-radio amateurs, use the winlink network to send/receive e-mails via SSB radio. Still I’d like to have such a thing like shadowmail. So, I wrote a program that gives me the basic functionality of shadowmail: monitoring my (land-based) e-mail accounts and getting selected e-mails forwarded to my winlink account. Read more »

2013
02
Dec

Up Mount Mokoto

Yesterday was one of these incredibly clear days with southern winds (no longer chilly, but pleasantly cool) and a deep blue sky without a single cloud. We used it to hike up Mount Mokoto–apparently the second highest peak, but it looks exactly the same height as it’s neighbour Mount Duff (officially the highest mountain). The ascent wasn’t difficult, but extremely steep and despite the pleasant temperatures we were completely exhausted when we reached the peak after walking along a dangerously narrow ridge.
The view over the whole archipelago with the turquoise outer reef and countless sand banks and coral heads glittering in incredible shades of pastel blue and turquoise was simply breathtaking. If there is a place more beautiful than this one we haven’t found it yet :-)

2013
29
Nov

Article on Las Perlas in All-at-Sea

Our article on the Las Perlas got published in the current issue (November) of the All-at-Sea Caribbean magazine.


Birgit Hackl: Las Perlas — Unspoiled Nature Near Panama City, All At Sea Caribbean, November 2013, p. 36–38. Free download from allatsea.net.

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