Pitufa.at

After 2 days with nice sailing conditions, we’re now back to squally, annoying weather. 200 miles to go.

Last night was really terrible. We passed through so many squalls, about 1 every hour, which slowed down our progress substantially. Not only was the permanent reefing/unreefing tedious, but also the fact that inbetween the squalls the wind was very light and from the wrong direction was frustrating. We lost many of the eastward miles we previosly had fought for so hard. Now we have to gain easting again quickly otherwise we have to coil our way through the atolls of the Tuamotu.

This morning we were lucky and caught a medium-sized yellow-fin tuna. So we had ceviche for lunch and sashimi for dinner Leeloo had sashimi twice. We are making good progress, only in the afternoon, when we entered an area with fluky, light winds and some small squalls, our speed dropped to 3 kn.

When we set off yesterday we still hadn’t decided whether we’d stop on the way in Tahuata or Fatu Hiva again, but the wind made the decision for us: 20 to 25 knots from the east (instead of 12 from the northeast…) made it impossible to reach the southern islands of the Marquesas on our tack, so we’re heading straight to the Gambier. We can just see the mountainous silhouette of Fatu Hiva, the southernmost island of the Marquesas, disappearing on the horizon. Despite her weight problems Pitufa’s doing well closehauled and we’re making good progress in steady winds under sunny skies.

Yesterday we explored Ua Pou a bit: we walked up from ‘our’ bay on a little path to the coastal road and then for two hours north, because we wanted to get a view of the gigantic stone spires the island is famous for. Unfortunately it was a bit cloudy, so the highest peaks were hiding from us, but on the other hand the overcast skies saved us from a potential heat stroke on the road. Our initial plan had been to hitch rides, but during our march north not a single car passed by–as soon as we turned back we were lucky though and a pick up came by and gave us a ride. The houses are smaller, the main road isn’t paved and only few people seem to own a car–apparently Ua Pou’s the poor little sister of Nuku Hiva… Today we prepared the boat for the passage south (took the dinghy on deck, flushed the outboard with freshwater, took the mobile solar panel off, baked bread, stored everything savely away etc.), because it seems there’s a favourable weather window during the next week to sail back down to the Gambier. Sailing along the island we got more spectacular views of the sheer cliffs and monoliths of Ua Pou, nevertheless we were happy to leave the island behind, because sailing on the western coast with little wind, but gusts howling down the mountains wasn’t an easy task. Now Pitufa’s stomping ahead slowly–instead of the predicted 12 knots beamreach, we’re facing 18 knots closehauled. Hopefully the wind will change when we get further off the island, to make the ride less bumpy. We haven’t had much luck fishing around the Marquesas, and when the lure went tight this evening we excitedly ran to see what we had caught and were quite shocked to see that a booby (our favourite seabirds) had caught the lure and was being dragged behind the boat underwater. What a horror. We quickly slowed down the boat, got the poor guy up and freed his beak from the hook. Af first he was just lying still, but then he started coughing up water and sat up. After a while he started flapping and we helped him back into the water–hopefully he’ll recover

This morning we got our two anchors up (what a muddy mess) and left the big and busy island Nuku Hiva. We had a pleasant sail southwards in light winds and calm seas down to the little island Ua Pou. We’re the only boat anchored on the western side in the bay of Vaiehu. All around us the waves are thundering against the cliffs, but Pitufa rides the long swell reasonably comfortable. We’ve just prepared a sundowner to enjoy our first sunset in weeks (none of the anchorages we visited on Nuku Hiva was open to the west)

Christian’s been worrying about a throat ache for a while, as there’s no specialist in Nuku Hiva available, we decided to fly to Tahiti to see a doctor there. We left on Monday, leaving Leeloo in charge of Pitufa and our friendly neighbours on SY Kril in charge of Leeloo. We were really lucky, as other cruiser friends (Fabio and Lisa on Amandla) had just arrived in Tahiti and offered us to stay for free on their boat. The cruiser’s world is a small and friendly one

Yesterday we hitchhiked from Taipivai over the mountains to the maintown Taiohae, because we still had some errants to run there and simply couldn’t be bothered to sail to the uncomfortable bay of Taiohae where we would have had to set a stern anchor again, etc. Instead we took the dinghy along the river to the village of Taipivai early in the morning, walked a few metres up the road to Taiohae and just a few minutes later we were lucky and got a ride with a crew of young construction workers on their way to town. The way back was just as easy, every car’s willing to take along a few more passengers (the typical friendly Polynesian behaviour), but as there’s so little traffic here between the rush hours, it can sometimes take half an hour until the first car comes by. Today we lifted the anchor early in the morning to sail up to the bay of Anaho on the northern side of Nuku Hiva. All cruisers who had been there described it as gorgeous, one of our guide books calls it the best anchorage in the Marquesas, so we couldn’t wait to get here. We expected it to be a nice sail reaching up the island, but first we had strong noserlies around the cape and then ended up with very little wind, but high waves and swell plus the reflections of the waves coming back from the cliffs–a nightmare of cross-seas with flapping sails. We didn’t catch a fish either… We reached Anaho around noon and it looks pleasant enough at first sight well protected, but it’s just a wide bay with palm trees, a few beaches, a fringe reef in unfortunatley AGAIN murky water. Maybe we’re just spoiled from all the perfect postcard places we anchored at in the Gambier, but Nuku Hiva’s not exactly our idea of paradise. Especially as we know that the beach that’s twinkling enchantingly in the sunlight from afar, will be covered in biting bloodsuckers again

Yesterday we left Hakatea to sail to Controleur Bay at the southeastern end of Nuku Hiva. What looked like a short distance on the chart (just 8 nm) turned into half a day of beating into the easterly trade wind that gets accelarated to about 20 to 25 knots along the coast with Pitufa stomping into short, choppy seas. After four hours and several tacks we caught a big dorade (mahi-mahi) just when we had given up hope on ever catching a fish in Marquesan waters and were about to enter the bay. Baie Hakahaa is a very large and deeply indented bay that gives enough shelter from the swell to swing on just a single anchor (the first time since we got to Nuku Hiva…). The rest of the day we were busy cleaning and filetting the fish (enough to feed us for 4 days and cleaning the salty and muddy deck as well as the muddy and overgrown rope we had used for the stern anchor in the previous bay. We usually think twice whether it’s worth it to go through such a hazzle for just a day sail. Today we entered the river at the mouth of the bay by dinghy, took a walk through the pleasant village Taipivai and up to some ancient religious site with stone tikis and ceremonial platforms up in the lush mountains. After running out of beer last week (a life-threating emergency for Christian), we bought a few bottles in the minimarket and will be able to have a real BBQ WITH beer tonight (and fish steaks of course )